Searching desperately for a reason to get out of bed every morning (other than kids pouncing on me in the wee hours) and trying to identify some goal or purpose to get through this Groundhog Day life, I have started writing our book in earnest, complete with the stories that may have made us cry at the time, but will hopefully be the punchline of jokes and stories told round the campfire years down the road. For a little humorous inspiration, I started watching David Sedaris’ Masterclass on Storytelling and Humor. He starts early on by saying “Everything’s funny, eventually,” and proceeds to tell us a series of stories that, at the time, must have been horrifying and embarrassing, but in retrospect make you smile, chuckle, snort, or just repeat “Oh my goodness” (or something more explicit) over and over.
Luckily – as you will have learned from the last post – Tom is one of those people who can see the humor in the moment, or at least as long as there isn’t an immediate emergency to deal with, like, say, sinking. And in the midst of a world of uncertainty, Tom was even able to find the humor in the 95-degree environment that was making him miserable: I was definitely in a cranky and irritable mood today. 8ft waves on a 5 second period right on the beam, requiring all the hatches to be closed and roasting in the heat was mostly to blame. No beer available either to take the edge off my foul mood. I also didn’t get enough sleep the last 2 nights. The cat’s food from yesterday was full of maggots, care of the tropics. Rashes that persist and multiply? Tropics. Constantly dehydrated with 90-degree tap water or 70-degree fridge water to drink? Tropics. Home-brewed beer tastes like shit? Tropics. Sprouts go moldy before they finish sprouting? Tropics. Stinky clothes that were clean yesterday? Tropics. Two day old cat litter with maggots? Tropics. Sunburn because sunscreen won’t adhere to my wet sweaty flesh? Tropics. I was in a mood to cut down every palm tree I ever saw for the rest of my life. Give me a home… where the Eskimos roam… and the sky is dark and cloudy all day! (sing it with me!)
That was 13 days ago, and I haven’t heard him complain about the heat in at least five days, so I think they have finally made it into cooler promised land. Not that we ever expected Hawaii to be that promised land. Images of sitting in cold anchorages in Alaska is what has fueled his motivation for the past month, but if Hawaii is willing to take the temperatures down a notch (83 F) from those of French Polynesia (93 F), he’ll take it. Every degree is a gift.
If Tom made his dislike of the tropics known in that last rant, then Korvessa is making her own dislikes and needs known in this next one. I don’t think Tom meant this to be a poem, but I am turning it into one, and it shall be entitled “Day 51 at Sea, or Rants from a Fed-Up Ketch“. Bonus points for other great titles you put in the comments!
Last night one of Tinker’s securing lines broke. I fixed it.
Today the vang broke. I fixed it.
Today the SSB modem broke. I fixed it.
Today the chart plotter broke and erased all info and placed our boat south of Burkino Fasa on the African coast. I fixed it.
Today the helm seat broke, with me on it. I didn’t fix it. I got a huge bruise in the fall. I punched the mizzen mast.
And from thousands of miles away in our isolation cell here in Anacortes, to top off the many things we will laugh about in the future (can you hear my voice squeak with withheld tears as I write that), we have lost the remote control to the TV (to one of those modern “smart” TVs that doesn’t actually have any real buttons, I might add). Any of you with small kids will understand what a disaster this is. Or maybe you’re among the parents who wisely don’t allow TV time in the morning and carefully control content and time. I am not one of those parents. At least not right now. After experimenting with different times of day to write, I finally settled on 6:00 to 6:45 am, which was the only time of day that I have been able to successfully hide from my kids, thanks to the wondrous invention of the TV. Unfortunately, that is no longer an option. One child crawled into my bed at 6:11 a.m. and said “Mommy, I can’t watch TV, so I’m going to watch you write.” Yeah, right. He did leave, but I can hear him making whale sounds through the wall. The other child is now curled up against me and attempting to hold onto my left arm like a beloved stuffy. I am now typing with one hand. At least he is not making sounds.
Aha! We found the remote after about five hours of searching, which is the sole reason I am able to sit here locked in my parents’ guest bedroom and finish up this post. (Oops, never mind. I was just interrupted. Twice. Three times. That’s it, I need a lock.) I am clearly not going to be able to edit or revise, but you all like nice, raw writing anyway, right?
There will be so many stories we will have from this adventure, so many memories. Many are so good that they will bring smiles to our faces without even trying: kids jumping on the fore-deck while we bounce over waves, beach fires with friends, finding whale bones on the beach, watching breaching whales from the boat. Others, not so much: Demon pooping on the bed right in front of us? Staring in horror at a son who seemed to have turned into a car, because those were the only sounds he would make? The entire bin of Lego and toys spewing all over the v-berth and galley due to a 35-knot gust that knocked us on our side? Dylan puking all over me within the first hour of a 3-day passage? No personal space, ever. We’ll tell stories about those things, too, and hopefully get a laugh out of friends and ourselves. Because everything’s funny, eventually.
Informational Addendum: The guys seem on track to arrive in Honolulu on Saturday sometime. After looking at weather and currents, they have wisely decide to take the slightly longer windward (north) route around the islands in order to have more consistent winds and swell than what they would encounter on the lee side of the islands. The strong winds coming in over the next few days are predicted to cause some strong winds and confused seas around South Point (on the Big Island) and some nasty-looking gap winds whipping through the Alenuihaha Channel, which would result in a very difficult, uncomfortable, and potentially dangerous last 48 hours. So around the top they go.
Once they get to the dock in Waikiki, they will hopefully be able to get some beer, pizza, and a very very long sleep (pretty sure that’s the order they want things in). Roberto will fly out on Monday. The kids and I will fly in on Tuesday. And while we complete our 14-day quarantine together, we’ll work on cajoling and repairing Korvessa and all her tough but tired parts. We don’t know what lies ahead after that: a little time to explore Hawaii by car? Or by boat? Will be there for three weeks? Four? Seven? We don’t know. What we’re hoping is that, when the time is right, we’ll fly the kids back to grandparents for a few weeks and take off on the 2,200 nautical mile trip north to Alaska!
Awesome! You’ll love Alaska!
Is that the cat on his head?
Laura, yes, that is a cat on his head. She will walk over whatever is in the way to get to her water glass. She has also been known to pounce on the bed in the middle of the night, not caring where she lands, which is usually on Tom’s sensitive parts.
“Kvetching on the ketch”
Huggggssss
Tom and Sandi,
What difficult times for everyone, with compounding factors for us nomads… So sorry to read about the disruptions to your cruising plans.
We met you both [briefly] in Anacortes right after we took posession of [sistership] Denali Rose in summer 2014. We have followed your journeys and occasionally conversed on one or more of the various Nauticat forums.
We have remained in, and continue to be enamored of SE Alaska since we brought Denali Rose here in fall 2014.
If you decide to spend some time in SE Alaska this year [or anytime…] we are happy to provide local information and help smooth the way, if desired.
Currently, AK is also pretty much locked down. However, SE AK is [commercial fishing] boating centric, and currently counts isolated time on the water towards quarantine time. And— as you are already aware— has many [remote] places to explore. [But most smaller communities— mainly those lacking any medical infrastructure— are self closed down at present.]
We can act as liaison to Alaska, and Wrangell in particular. We can provide delivery of groceries, parts, and fuel on the water if necessary…
Fuel docks are open, and in Wrangell, you can have groceries delivered to the fuel dock for no extra charge. [Commercial fishing port… lots of groceries and fuel…] Dockage is also available in Wrangell, Petersberg, and Ketchikan at last check.
We understand your primary goals are to get back to WA, but if you decide a detour via SE AK is compelling, and assuming [worse case] Canada still doesn’t admit our kind by this fall [US and Can borders currently closed through 22-May, with possible extensions] your worse case getting back to WA is just a segment of your current plan: take a shot S outside and get there in 3-5 days from here… [the Pac high supports comfortable runs S outside through Aug historically, with ever narrowing and less frequent windows of opportunity through Dec…]
We wish you the best on the next legs of your adventures, and only offer these options as food for thought- with our hearty support and well wishes whatever you decide…
Let us know if we can be of any assistance along the way, and safe travels!
Bill & Donna on SV Denali Rose
PS: Long ago we had shared our controlled access contact info with your Sailorxxxxxx….. email address in case you desire to get in direct contact.
Thanks, Bill! Of course, we remember you. Thanks for the suggestions and ideas. It’s helpful to know what the situation is in SE Alaska. While all plans are fluid right now (VERY fluid), our current idea is to head up to South-Central AK and spend some time on the Kenai and Prince William Sound (and a little land visit up to my old stomping grounds in Eagle River), and then head over to the SE very very briefly – somewhere (maybe Wrangell!). We’ll need to book it south so we can get the kids back for the start of school on Sept 2. We’ll probably head back up there another time, hopefully the summer of 2021, so we can take our time and really experience SE AK. Let’s stay in touch, and we’ll let you know what our plans end up being. After all the heat in Mexcio and the tropics, we have been dreaming of Alaska.
Great idea prioritizing Prince Wm Sound [PWS] as a summer stopover. I kept a different boat in Valdez for 14 years and still miss the Sound to this day… [I had an office in Anchorage and lived in… Eagle River…]
We have one of the last cruising guide editions published for PWS [Lethcoe; 1999] and are happy to loan it to you… If you are interested PM us and let us know when and where to mail it…
I did a ~7 year coconut milk run decades ago. [And I wish I had Denali Rose [DR] and her 3 air conditioners then…] I never acclimated… And having spent the 15 years prior to moving onto DR full time in Fairbanks, we still suffer when it hits low to mid 70s °F [above zero…] around here…
We wish you the best with your travels, and are always available- especially if we can help add confusion to any situation…
Cheers! Bill & Donna
Hi Bill. Thanks for the offer of the cruising guide! We actually have the 2009 edition of that same guide that some good friends of ours here lent us for the summer, so I think we’re set. I also was able to pick up guides for Kodiak and Kenai Fjords, too. We won’t have a lot of time, but hopefully it will be enough to get a good taste of Alaska! We’ll be in touch when we get closer. Sandi